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A Totally Legitimate Art Blog

History & Practice: End of the 19th Century - Differences Within Art Nouveau Across Europe

13/10/2019

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Art Nouveau is a decorative art style that developed around the 1890s as a rebellious counter-culture, rejecting the established academic arts' convention towards art and design. Art Nouveau was the new-hotness hitting the European art stage with flowing curves, unified design aesthetics, and dynamic forms inspired by nature. Art Nouveau ("New Art" in French) spread from France and  developed unique aspects as different European countries' culture influenced their art and design.

Glasgow - Scotland

Glasgow's style of art nouveau was more geometrically focused, with limited, less extreme usage of grand whiplash curves. The more organised, and practically structured nature of this style works well when applied to architectural design.
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Martyr's School Doorway, 1895 - Charles Rennie Mackintosh
The unique style of art nouveau in Glasgow was developed by a quartet known as "The Glasgow Four". This group comprised of
  • Charles Rennie Mackintosh 1868 - 1928
  • Margret MacDonald Mackintosh 1864 - 1933
  • Herbert MacNair 1868 - 1955
  • Frances MacDonald 1873 - 1921
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Queen's Cross Church Window Drawing, 1896 - Charles Rennie Mackintosh
The Glasgow style of art nouveau seems to have developed alongside the constraints of architecture, as such the designs are limited within relatively standard forms present on buildings. There are no impractically decorative elements included in the Glaswegian style of art nouveau, yet the decorations that are present have the nature-inspired flowing design that is common in traditional art nouveau.
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Glasgow Herald Building Drawing, 1894 - Charles Rennie Mackintosh
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Glasgow Herald Building Doorway Painting , 1895 - Charles Rennie Mackintosh
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Revolving Bookshelf, 1904 - Charles Rennie Mackintosh
As the Glasgow style of art nouveau developed, it became more geometrically focused. This revolving bookshelf has no natural-looking curves, it is entirely geometric in its aesthetic. This trajectory of development would lean into the Arts & Crafts movement.

Madrid - Spain

Madrid's, similar to Glasgow's, Art Nouveau style is intertwined with the city's architecture. Madrid experienced an urban expa​nsion near the end of the 19th century, resulting in the construction of many new buildings as the city grew. 
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Palace of Longoria Exterior Tower, 1902 - José Grases Riera
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Palace of Longoria Interior Stairway, 1902 - José Grases Riera
Madrid's Modernista style of Art Nouveau  developed in the early 20th century as new  decorative buildings were commissioned.
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Palace of Longoria Railings, 1902 - José Grases Riera
Madrid's integration into national trade was primarily focused on the construction industry, aiding in its localised expansion of architecture.
International trade of construction materials would allow new buildings to explore and utilise a wider array of materials with less financial risk.
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Palace of Longoria Balcony Railings, 1902 - José Grases Riera
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Palace of Longoria Interior Stairway Railings, 1902 - José Grases Riera
Madrid's Art Nouveau style is considerably more nature-centric when compared to the geometric themes of Glasgow's style. Floral features and organic curves are present in almost all aspects of Madrid's style, depicted in plaster, iron, and glass decorations.

Nancy - France

Nancy is considered the epicentre of the Art Nouveau movement as it spread across Europe. As such, Nancy has a greater number of Art Nouveau buildings than any of the other Cities we've looked at.
The style of Art Nouveau present in Nancy is focused on nature, features of plants, and insects are common in the decorative elements of Nancy's Art Nouveau architecture.
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Génin-Louis Lintel, 1901 - Henri Gutton, Henry Gutton, & Frédéric Schertzer
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Shop Vaxelaire, 1901 - Charles Andre, Emile Andre, & Eugene Vallin
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Villa Majorelle Doorway, 1902 -Henri Sauvage
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Huot House Doorway, 1903 - Émile André
Nancy's Art Nouveau style combines several materials made more accessible due to growing industry within the region into decorative architecture.
Iron and wood works provide a façade for panes of glass, clear or decorated. These fronts silhouette plant-like structures from the inside of a building, while also containing a more detailed face that projects outward.

Vienna - Austria

Vienna's Art Nouveau movement goes by the name Jugendstil which translates as "Young Style", or "Youth Style". This style of Art Nouveau originated in Germany and spread throughout the south-eastern parts of Europe. This style shares a similar focus on natural forms and more organic, flowing lines.
As with the other cities covered, Vienna was experiencing a period of growth, resulting in new infrastructure and more buildings being constructed with modern materials. A new railway system was being built in Vienna during its Jugendstil period, as such stations and grand public halls were being constructed to accommodate the railway.
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The decorative elements in Vienna's style seem to have a more practical and restricted form, similar to the Glasgow style, they do not impede the functionality of an object. Vienna's Art Nouveau decorations seem to be applied to an object rather than being integrated into the object unlike the styles of Madrid or Nancy where the decorative element is integral to an object's structure, where form and function are one-in-the-same.
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There is a clear disconnect between decorative elements and practical elements of Viennese Art Nouveau constructs. However, the decorative elements seem to be more lavish in their aesthetic, golden elements feature prominently leaving some of the less shiny assets in the design go unnoticed.
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History & Practice: Japanese Art's Influence on European Art and Design in the late 19th Century

6/10/2019

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Japan spent over 220 years with closed borders and limited trade policies enacted in the 17th century. This policy was established off the back of the sengoku jidai, "age of civil war", resulting in a unified Japan after 148 years of military conflicts.
Japan's self-imposed isolationist policy towards global affairs was forcibly ended by America via two warships in 1853, resulting in Japan trading with America (at cannon-point). This trade opened up Japanese goods and culture to the western world.

Claude Monet - Case Study

Claude Monet:
  • Born in Paris, France - 1840
  • French Painter
  • Founding Impressionist
  • Died in Giverny, France - 1926
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Madame Monet in a Japanese Kimono, 1875 - Claude Monet
In this example of Japan's influence on Art, the content heavily features Japanese items, the Kimono, and the rather excessive number of uchiwa upon the wall and floor. However the style of the piece retains a more traditionally western technique and aesthetic.
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Madame Monet and her Son, 1875 - Claude Monet
In contrast to Monet's shocking Japanese fan collection, this painting is western in its form and content, featuring Monet's Impressionist style depicting contemporary French fashion in a French setting.

Vincent Van Gogh - Case Study

Vincent Van Gogh:
  • Born in Groot-Zundert, Netherlands - 1853
  • Dutch Painter
  • Post-Impressionist
  • Died Auvers-sur-Oise, France  - 1890
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Courtesan, 1887 - Vincent Van Gogh
This is a pretty hard gotcha for Van Gogh, as this painting features a very Japanese figure with the same pose as an original Japanese print (see right).
However, Van Gogh has changed several elements from the original, transforming it in the process. The inclusion of a painted background is a great departure from the original, as well as several changes in details of the figure.
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Beauty and Sumida River, ~1810 - 1820 - Keisai Eisen
The original print Van Gogh is drawing from, like many Japanese prints appears on a minimal canvas, leaving the figure to float in space free from unnecessary detail.
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Self Portrait, 1887 - Vincent Van Gogh
In contrast to Van Gogh's swamp-integrated Courtesan, this self portrait features the use of a western painting technique, Pointillism, far from the clear and clean lines of Japanese prints.
​Pointillism developed in France focusing on colour-theory, contrasting colours, and many smaller marks constructing the painting as a whole.
Japanese woodblock prints tend to feature a relatively limited colour palette, especially when compared to the plethora of hues present in a pointillist painting.
Colours present on woodblock prints are very flat, whereas pointillist colours convey a range of textures and depth.
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History & Practice: Clothing In Context

25/9/2019

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Fencing Jacket - Case Study

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Fencing Jacket - Closed Position
PictureFencing Jacket - Partially Open Position
Design of Form

This is my SPES "Officer" Fencing Jacket it is a jacket designed for Historical European Martial Arts (HEMA). As it is designed for a specific activity, this piece of clothing primarily favours function over form, however, in this particular jacket's design considerations, form is not compromised in the least.

This jacket is designed to emulate the aesthetic of historical fencing jackets of the late 19th, and early 20th century. This design appeals to some modern practitioners of HEMA as period-accurate attire displays one's interest in such things and often facilitates a discussion with fellow practitioners.
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Due to this jacket's unique aesthetic, especially compared to other examples of fencing jacket, it may be worn outside of fencing activities without alluding to its true, practical, purpose (provided one doesn't look at the overtly sewn-on external tags too hard).

This jacket is available in several different colours (at an increased price). However, its default colour is black. Black has become the default colour for most HEMA gear, colloquially known as "HEMA Black" due to its prevalence. This, I believe, is to intentionally counter the modern sport fencing convention of having fencing equipment in all-white.

PictureFencing Jacket - Open Position
Design of Function

As this jacket is design for HEMA, its features reflect the needs such an activity necessitates:
Padded and puncture resistant material (to reduce chances of injury)
High collar and folded-over neck guard (to protect the neck from errant thrusts)
Overlapping chest flaps (For greater safety on critical areas)

There are a few quality-of-life features built into this jacket which assist with its functionality:
The Zipper has an extra-long cord attached to it. This is useful because HEMA activities usually require one to wear large and cumbersome gloves which greatly reduce dexterity, the zipper cord reduces the minimum dexterity required to operate the jacket's closure mechanism.
The Sleeves have V cut-outs on the underside of them, allowing them to open up slightly. This once again, aids in the use and wearing of large protective gloves.
The snap fasteners. Although made redundant by the zip (and are a huge pain in the ass to button all 9 of them up), the snap fasteners ensure the jacket cannot be opened accidentally, and incidentally make the wearer look hella cool.
The Adjustable Belt allows the garment to be fitted more securely to the wearer's form, this enhances the aesthetics, and also prevents displacement of vital protective elements while in use.

Although this jacket has the aesthetic of a late 19th century fencing jacket, its composed of modern elements and materials (50% Cotton - 50% Polyester outer shell, and 100% Polyester Lining) such as a zipper, and snap fasteners for its method of closure, and a built-in adjustable belt for fitting.

​Cultural Significance

The modern resurgence of HEMA has created an interest in historically inspired equipment, thus the creation of a functional modern fencing jacket in a Victorian style. The original Victorian fencing jackets this item is based on were originally an emulation of contemporary military attire.

Many European militaries had similar looking jackets present in their uniforms (some still do in ceremonial dress). The aesthetic this fencing jacket aims to emulate was present in the ages of history many HEMA practitioners source their instructive fencing material from.
Manufacture

This garment is, proudly, made in Poland by the SPES company, which they make very clear by sewing on their tags externally to the garment. These tags feature the Polish flag, a variation of the Polish coat of arms, the SPES company logo, and the year in which this model of fencing jacket was originally conceived.

Poland has a rich martial history, so the practice of HEMA is very popular and a source of pride for a company producing equipment supporting such a hobby, especially since all their products are manufactured in their home country which is quite the rarity in the world of fashion.
Sources
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    Author:

    Elliot Watson, Illustrator with a background in historical swordsmanship and all the weird and wonderful trappings that entails.

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